While small tailors who work from residential localities with a single sewing machine only make ₹ 7,000-10,000 a month, mostly through alterations or domestic work, the salaries of those employed in stores and boutiques range from ₹ 14,000 a month for juniors to ₹ 60,000 and above in cities, and even more for those with experience. “We have conceptualized the service keeping ourselves in mind as customers," says Neha, adding that they interviewed 50-odd tailors through websites like Quikr and private references to finalize their list. Those who viewed the change in fashions with dismay set up a chorus of “Charkhata” (clothes cut on all four sides). He tells the tailor what to stitch and how. You are now subscribed to our newsletters. These professionals are a lot in demand," she says. As one tailor told us, they now offer to make two kurtas for the price of what was until not long ago called a “set", since most customers don’t want sets any more. But they admit they are willing to spend big amounts for good fits, an elusive luxury in ready-made garments. It was a corset and sarong set for the mother of a bride from Singapore. Today Sabri, who specializes in menswear, caters to upper middle-class customers, including those with requests like “make me a Hugo Boss suit". | Photo Credit: G_RAMAKRISHNA. No tips and reviews. The tailor tale has many labyrinths. As a subscriber, you are not only a beneficiary of our work but also its enabler. She was herself very poor and a latter-day poet portrayed her plight in this verse: “Dukhtar-e-darzin ka seena dekh kar/Ji mai ata hai mal mal doon”. Then there was Masterji who became a mental case after his wife eloped with someone youngster. Sometimes he was helped by Mrs Whelpdale and Mrs Saldhana, two seamstresses of St. Xavier School’s tailoring department. To assume, therefore, that all tailor-made bespoke garments would be too simplistic. We promise to deliver quality journalism that stays away from vested interest and political propaganda. Instead of becoming irrelevant, the masterji—often male—is a sought after and much poached professional. Joseph Gabriel was a school tailor who stitched khaki uniforms for Anglo-Indian boys. The company has also tied up with eight-odd tailors with different specializations—from Indian-wear to formal work-wear—to execute customer orders. The shair was not above the charge of using a double-entendre. So smaller private boutiques, like the one run by Seyam Siddiqui in Bandra in Mumbai, charge ₹ 2,500 onwards for a choli, while Kannath charges ₹ 3,000 and more for what she calls “designer" blouses. A talented masterji working with a top designer could even get ₹ 1.5 lakh a month, or more. Hello Masterji is reputed for its Patiala Salwar Suits. After all, I was the design diva when it came to my doll's wardrobe. But here the tailors are on a high, both as Mr Fix-It and Mr Easy-to-Access. No tips yet. 24x7 WhatsApp availability, tailoring rate cards on websites, a readiness to reproduce designer garments at less than half the price, and innovative business strategies have widened the entrepreneurial girth of the tailoring profession. As someone who relies on her tailor for the bulk of her wardrobe, even for what she wears when she travels abroad, Vadodara-based Deepti Sharma, who runs a proprietary consulting outfit called Finncare, is correct when she says that “the wardrobe needs of the XXL Indian remain unfulfilled by the ready-made market"—this, she says, is a big reason why tailors haven’t been robbed of their business. “Women need sensitive tailors who understand the politics between their real measurements and their imagined self-image—often the two are not the same but both must be pandered to. For many of the female clients interviewed, the sari blouse once just a necessary part of the Indian woman’s wardrobe, is now the star. It was the tailors who flourished at the expense of the well-dressed and their ways became arrogant to the point of exasperation. Then after Bhuddhi Master and Master Mehboob, there was Balloo the tailor who stitched memsahibs’ clothes while visiting the Civil Lines bungalows. Your session has expired, please login again. “The fact that more tapered trousers are made in tailoring units now is not just because they are a cheap alternative to the steep prices of premium brands or a blind craze for Western-wear, but because ready retail has been unable to offer the camouflaging solutions needed by Indian women," she adds. But he went home a happier man and didn’t mind eating a cold, tasteless supper and his wife’s grumbling. Tailor Near By You; Contact Us; About Us. Post. Once an orphan boy was sent away from class by the lady teacher as he was wearing a torn shirt. There was Toori who had taken to smoking charas and sometimes got his measurements all wrong. 417 (fourth floor) belongs to a masterji who can stitch up a storm.Rinku Tailor in Shahpur Jat is now my go-to person for a quick upcycling job for whenever I need to give my worn-out, damaged or old-school clothes a fresh lease of life. Share. But the tailors and their clients were redeemed by the onslaught of Western fashions and “London-trained” tailors sprouted everywhere. Fabric swatches from global luxury brands like Scabal, Loro Piana and Ermenegildo Zegna are displayed in the store. Now for the darzis, they too were poor and led lives of penury but were an important part of society all the same. And then came Nawab Budhan, the dandiest of the nawabs whose sherwani cut was the cynosure of all eyes and led to immediate imitation. However, during the Delhi Sultanate the tailors were mostly Central Asian, though there were some local tailors too. To enable wide dissemination of news that is in public interest, we have increased the number of articles that can be read free, and extended free trial periods. “A pattern-master is an intermediary between the designer and the tailor. The urge to socialize frequently, even in small towns, and the increased number of functions at weddings fuel this need. It'll just take a moment. They send “Inchitape experts", educated girls with a basic background in tailoring, to homes to collect orders and take measurements. Anything said about the fabulous Anarkali would be less. year before avinash and Danish established a company name Ms- shiprel textile pvt ltd. Subscribe to The Hindu now and get unlimited access. So when Kirpal says that masterjis are in short supply and their demand far exceeds availability, it is clearly an entrepreneurial loophole waiting to be plugged. Technology aids this process. Chennai-based Sruthi Kannath, who runs an eponymous label and also undertakes tailoring projects, explains how a pattern-master has become crucial to tailoring units. Pointing to his palm where two lines incredibly merged into a birdlike image he would say, “This is chidya – Sheela’s chidya and she gives it to anyone she likes.” Sheela was his wife’s name and that was Masterji’s way of getting back at her. Tailors emphasize that their business is brisk because the middle class now wants more “occasion-wear". So tailors who execute the vision of a designer are trained to work in a certain way. Last year we were flooded with orders for the Modi jacket," says Sabri. So their children may have been better clothed because of the progress of human ingenuity despite the rhyme, “When Adam delved and Eve span/ Who was then the gentleman!” In Christ’s days garments were stitched for the privileged few who could afford more than one in a lifetime. They are in search of well-fitted bespoke garments which suit their body type, not possible with ready-to-wear garments," says Sabri. That was when the sherwani craze had already begun to spread in preference to the traditional angarkha of the old courtier. Copyright © HT Digital Streams Limited All rights reserved. The anarkali too is flourishing across towns. Women from cities and small towns no longer want just a blouse—they want a garment that connects them with the latest rage in Bollywood, Hindi television and designer stores. The garments of the ruling class were tailor-made, the poor were not so fortunate. How tough can it be working as a ladies' tailor? Detailed forms are filled out specifying sizes, fabrics, embellishment details, colours, piping, lace details, linings and silhouettes—everything that goes into the making of a bespoke garment. Save. Back in New Delhi, designer Arjun Saluja would agree. Starts from Rs 450* onwards. However, we have a request for those who can afford to subscribe: please do. “Masterji politics", once just a sliver of concern in the worker unions of fashion units, is today a prickly subject—frequent poaching has made designers both insecure about, and protective of, the tailors who work for them. Kannath says she often gets requests from clients asking her to replicate designer-wear, of Sabyasachi particularly, but she tries to give them variations of the look instead of an exact copy. All services are priced between INR 300 and INR 500. Stitched clothes are dropped off at clients’ homes. I smiled to myself. He glances involuntarily at a section of his store where pre-stitched Modi-style waistcoats are ready for sale.
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